|
|
San Telmo |
|
|
This is one of the most “porteño” neighborhoods of the city, near downtown, with a very representative historical and architectural reserve, as it brings together buildings from the 17th, 19th and 20th centuries, preserving at the same time the important cultural city’s heritage.
There are narrow paved streets, colonial houses with wrought iron grille and houses, mansions and buildings in the English, French and art noveau styles.
With the migratory inflow, San Telmo, the oldest neighborhood of the city, got filled with languages and “strange” costumes. The immigrants, after the yellow fever period that stroke the south of the city between 1870 and 1871, settled in the mansions and houses wealthy people abandoned due to the plague. These houses were subdivided into spaces of one or two rooms and were given to different families. This was the birth of the famous “conventillos” (slum tenements). The same would then happen in Monserrat neighborhood.
The artists and artisans chose this place to set up their homes and ateliers, occupying the old colonial mansions. San Telmo, rich in legends and anecdotes, nowadays hosts the most important antiquarian market and presents the biggest tango center of the city, with many places where to learn and dance tango, turning it into one of the most visited tourist spots.
In spite of time erosion, San Telmo and Monserrat are two neighborhoods that still keep colonial remains with its cobbled streets, low houses and colonial street lamps.
The convent of San Francisco stands in the corner of Alsina and Defensa streets, a work by the Jesuit Giovanni Andrea Bianchi, who is also the designer of the old Town Hall, in Monserrat and the church Del Pilar, in Recoleta. There are other old and historical buildings such as the church of San Telmo (which gave the name to the neighborhood) and the church of San Ignacio, which was the first Jesuit church of the area. The construction of these churches started at the beginnings of the 18th century, but some of them were finished by the “Betlemitas” friars because the Jesuits were forced to abandon the River Plate for some time, following an order from the Spanish Crown.
The name of the neighborhood comes from a Neapolitan saint, patron of sailors and fishermen.
During the 19th century, the neighborhood played a key role during the British Invasions in 1806 and 1807. The creators of the national rosette, French and Beruti, lived in this neighborhood, as well as other renowned thinkers such as Dorrego and de Luca.
The first hospital of Buenos Aires and the Medical School were situated in San Telmo, as well as the hospitals Rawson, Británico and Italiano.
The neighborhood was completely desolated after the strike of several epidemics, especially yellow fever, during 1871. Gradually, a clean-up movement started to take place through urbanization, cleaning, paving and lighting processes and everyone took part in it, especially the European immigrants, whose main concern was to live peacefully and have a job.
San Telmo is a pleasant neighborhood, simple and full of history, with beautiful antique shops, bars, crafts ateliers and art galleries.
At night, the area magically lights up to receive the visitors that go to the restaurants, pubs, dinner theaters and tango places to get into full contact with the culture of the city and spend a wonderful time.
El Viejo Almacén
This is a typical building from the 19th century, with its façade painted in white, low windows and an iron railing bordering the terrace roof.
It is situated in the corner of Balcarce St. and Independencia Av. It used to be a tango house, owned by the family of one of the most popular tango singers, Edmundo Rivero (1911-1986). It has been declared National Historical Landmark and nowadays it works as a tango place.
Parque Lezama (Lezama Park)
This park was created over one of the natural ravines of the city by José Gregorio Lezama, a well-off man from the province of Salta, in a portion of his property. When he died, his wife, Angela Álzaga, donated this land to the Town Hall in 1894. This wide park is surrounded by Brasil Av., Paseo Colón Av., Martín García Av. and Defensa St.
On Defensa St., you will find the “Museo Histórico Nacional” (National Historical Museum) whose exhibition halls present the historical process of the country.
The park counts with an amphitheater situated on Brasil St., similar to the ones in the old Greece. It was built in 1914, making use of the natural ravines and drops of the park. Several shows take place outdoors, especially in spring and summer.
Near the amphitheater you will find the French fountain “Neptuno y las Náyades”, dating back to 1931. The attractive sculptures represent Neptune, god of the sea in the Roman mythology, with the Naiads, the mythological beings who were guardians of the waters of rivers and streams.
It is recommended to visit the Lezama Park during the week and go to the “Pasaje Giuffra”, situated between Independencia Av. and Estados Unidos St. Both places are packed with old bars and nice restaurants which offer pasta, pizza and barbecues for all tastes.
On Saturdays and Sundays there is a crafts fair, open from 10 am to 8 pm.
Museo Histórico Nacional (National Historical Museum)
This Italian-style building was built in 1846 and it is situated in 1600 Defensa St., in the Lezama Park. The museum was founded in 1889 and it offers a view of Argentine history and costumes since the pre-Hispanic Indian cultures from the 14th and 15th centuries up to the 20th century through engravings, watercolor paintings, weapons, maps and objects of everyday life.
There is an interesting art gallery with oil paintings by Pedro Subercaseux such as “El Cabildo Abierto del 22 de mayo” and “La Primera Ejecución del Himno Nacional”; “Fundación de Buenos Aires por Juan de Garay” by José Moreno Carbonero; “La Guerra del Paraguay” by Cándido López, among other interesting paintings.
There are interesting historical pieces such as the cot used by the General José Francisco de San Martín (1778 - 1850); the armchair and guitar that belonged to the General Juan Manuel de Rosas (1793-1877); the inkwell used by the province’s representatives to sign the National Constitution in 1853; the piano that belonged to Mariquita Sánchez de Thompson, etc.
You can visit this place from Tuesdays to Sundays from 1.30 pm to 6 pm. There are guided tours on Saturdays and Sundays at 3.30 pm. Admittance is free. Tel: 4307-1182
Monumento a Pedro de Mendoza (Monument to Pedro de Mendoza)
This monument is situated in one of the entrances of Lezama Park, in the intersection of Defensa and Brasil streets. It is a work by the sculptor Juan Carlos Oliva Navarro (1888-1951). The bronze statue of the first founder of Buenos Aires city in 1536 appears with his sword on the floor, as a symbol of land possession. Behind the statue, there is a marble masonry where an Indian figure is highlighted.
Monumento a la Cordialidad Internacional (Monument to the Internacional Cordiality)
It was a gift by Uruguay to the city of Buenos Aires in 1936, due to its fourth centenary since its first foundation by Pedro de Mendoza. The work has a bronze column and was done by the Uruguayans Pena and Villamajó. It was situated in the Lezama Park, near Martín García Av.
Mural Escenográfico (State design mural)
This is a recycled slum tenement from 1880. It is situated in 36 Almirante Brown Av.
Museo Vivo del Tango (Tango Museum)
This museum, situated in 720 Piedras St., offers tango images and sounds through a guided tour with video films, musical instruments, posters, pictures and personal objects that belonged to the most important tango singers of the country and it ends with a play.
It is open every day from 2 pm to 8 pm. Live shows begin at 9 pm.
Iglesia de San Telmo (San Telmo Church)
The church of “San Pedro González Telmo” is located in 340 Humberto Primo St., between Defensa and Balcarce streets. The neighborhood owes its name to San Telmo, patron of sailors and fishermen. It holds valuable historical objects from the British Invasions, such as a watch given by the English who received asylum.
This is one of the oldest catholic churches of the city, built by the Jesuits as from 1734. It has been declared National Historical Landmark. Tel: 4361-1168.
Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa de la Santísima Trinidad (Russian Orthodox Church “Santísima Trinidad”)
It was built in the Muscovite style of the 17th century and was inaugurated in 1904 in 315 Brasil St.
The project was designed by the architect Mihail Timofevich Preobrazensnky in Saint Petersburg and built in Buenos Aires by the Norwegian architect Alejandro Christophersen in collaboration with the engineer Pedro Coni.
The five turquoise cupolas stand out, decorated with mosaics and paintings. Its interior also signals the presence of the Russian Byzantine style where color and light play a leading role. In the high altar you will see beautiful icons and cult objects, and the painting of the ceiling is worth admiring.
The czar Nicholas II and the czarina Alexandra contributed with more than 50 boxes with valuable artistic and religious pieces.
In front of the temple, you will find the amphitheater, built in 1914.
You can visit the church on Saturdays from 6 pm to 8.30 pm and on Sundays from 10 am to 12:30 pm.
Tel: 4316-4274.
Plaza Coronel Manuel Dorrego (Coronel Manuel Dorrego Square)
This old square is surrounded by bars and nightclubs to have a drink and enjoy a wonderful time, but you will also find antique shops where to buy several objects. As soon as it gets dark, the streets get lighted by picturesque colonial street lamps.
Many of the old colonial “conventillos” (slum tenements) are now painters and artists’ ateliers, giving an intellectual air to the area.
This square, that represents one of the most traditional places of the neighborhood and the city, is located in Humberto Primo St. and Defensa St.
The “Plaza Dorrego” crafts fair opens every Sunday since 1970. It has been declared National Historical Landmark.
Feria de San Telmo (San Telmo Craft Fair)
This interesting craft and antique fair opens on Sundays from 10 am to 5 pm in the historical square “Coronel Manuel Dorrego”. There are mime, music and tango shows and different old objects are sold made by porcelain, silver, crystal, glass, iron and wood. In this fair you may also find old records, phonographs, buttons, jewelry, postcards, maps, bottles, glasses, copper saucepans, iron fittings, advertising posters and toys.
On Saturdays, it is common to see old neighbors playing cards in tables and chairs they bring to the square.
Museo Penitenciario Antonio Ballvé (Penitentiary Museum “Antonio Ballvé”)
The museum keeps architectural elements from the 18th century and in its interior you will find the church “Nuestra Señora del Carmen”, a beautiful chapel built by the Jesuits in 1730.
This place was used as a prison during a long period of time; this is why it presents objects and elements related to the penitentiary system, such as replicas of cells, clothing and crafts made by convicts.
It was declared National Historical Landmark.
Casa de Castagnino (Castagnino’s house)
In this house, situated in 1016 Balcarce St., the painter Juan Carlos Castagnino (1908-1972) lived since 1968 until his death. He is famous due to his drawings of the “Martín Fierro”, a literary work by José Hernández.
There is an art gallery with a hall saved only for the famous painter. At nights, a theater dinner gives life to this magical neighborhood.
Pasaje de La Defensa
This is a typical mansion from the 1880s that belonged to the Ezeiza family, keeping its original style. With its three courtyards, it recreates the colonial Buenos Aires in one of the oldest neighborhoods of the city. Nowadays, there is a mall and antique shops with coffee lounges.
It is situated in 1179 Defensa St. and is open from Tuesdays to Sundays from 10 am to 8 pm.
Monumento Del Canto al Trabajo (Monument “A Hymn to Labor”)
This monument is a bronze work by Rogelio Yrurtia and was inaugurated in 1926 and it presents fourteen linked figures. With a classical style, it shows a huge stone dragged, through ropes, by a group of people from different ages and sexes, a tribute to collective work.
Rogelio Yrurtia (1879-1950) is considered one of the most important Argentine sculptors of the 20th century, contemporary to the French sculptor Auguste Rodin (1840-1917). Its works were exhibited in Paris and in 1904 he was awarded with the Prize of Honor in the Saint Louis Universal Exhibition.
It is situated in Paseo Colón Av. and Independencia Av.
Iglesia Dinamarquesa (Danish church)
This Lutheran temple is located in 257 Carlos Calvo St. and was built by the architects Rönnow and Bisgaard in 1931. Its neogothic façade presents a series of steps which ends in a tower. In its interior, the church holds beautiful Danish chandeliers and a model of the ship “Copenhagen”, of Danish origin, which sank in the twenties after it anchored in Buenos Aires port.
Casa de Santiago de Liniers (House of Santiago de Liniers)
Santiago Antonio María de Liniers y Bremond (1753-1810), a naval officer and politician of French origin, was the last but one River Plate Viceroy between 1807 and 1809. The house was built in 1788 and it is situated in 469 Venezuela St. It keeps its original façade with a beautiful carved door from the colonial period. It has been declared National Historical Landmark.
Mercado de San Telmo (San Telmo market)
It is located in the block surrounded by Bolívar, Carlos Calvo, Defensa and Estados Unidos streets.
This nice market, inaugurated in 1897, is full of history and tradition. It stands out because of its iron structure with sheet metal and glass roofs.
Casa Mínima (small house)
This tiny house from the 19th century, situated in 380 Pasaje San Lorenzo St., is named “Casa Mínima”, due to its smallness. Its upper floor presents a small balcony. |
|
|
.........................................................................................................
|
|
|
